Last Friday, after we visited our printer for Black Bile, the boyfriend and I found ourselves in Countrymall. It’s one of those malls where you wouldn’t want to be caught dead chilling in. But behind the seemingly ill-maintained structure are fantastic treasures. I am talking about cheap and unique apparel, Sriracha sauce, and fabrics! Oh, the fabrics. So easy on the pockets AND the eyes. I came home with these.
And the dotted one simply had to be turned into this:
The skirt turned out cute that I had to make another. And write a tutorial in the process.
To make a DIY gathered skirt with pocket, you will need the following:
a. fusible interfacing (width: twice the width of your preferred waistline || length: waist measurement with 3 inches add)
b. front and back pieces with 1-inch allowance all around (width of one piece: hip measurement + 8 to 12 inches || length: preferred length or true waist to an inch above the knee)
c. 8-inch zipper
d. waistline (same as the interfacing dimensions with additional 1/2-inch allowance all around)
e. pockets in fabric that contrasts your skirt, preferably (any seam pocket pattern you can download online will do; you can also construct your own with your hand as size guide)
f. hook and eye (not in photo below)
Here are my seam pocket pieces. I know these things are usually “curvaceous” in nature. I had to fashion mine with straight edges because I don’t have a serger.
All right, let’s move on to constructing our DIY gathered full skirt!
1. Attach your pocket pieces to one side of your skirt pieces, following the placement above, and with right sides together. Make sure that the top of both pocket pieces are 2 inches from the top stitch line of your skirt pieces. Sew along the pinned sides or the opening seam of your pocket. Sew ONLY this side of the pockets to your skirt pieces.
2. Adjust the stitch length of your sewing machine to the longest.
3. Sew along the top stitch line of your skirt pieces.
4. Holding one of the threads, start gathering your skirt. Pull and gather until…
5. … you reach a width that is equal the half of your total waistline. Do step 4 and 5 on your other skirt piece.
6. Now we sew the side seams of your skirt. First off, we start with the seam that contains the pocket. Pin the pieces, right sides together, with the pocket pieces positioned outwards. Sew together following the broken line illustrated above.
7. Pin the other side seam together. Sew.
8. Flatten the top part of the seam.
9. Pin your zipper to this flattened seam. The zipper should be face down, with the pull positioned by the gathered stitch line. Make sure that the middle of the zipper’s teeth sit along your seam nicely.
10. Sew the zipper to your skirt. Use a zipper foot, of course.
11. Flip to the other side and start ripping the seam.
12. Stop ripping by the zipper’s bottom.
13. Iron your interfacing to your waistline piece.
14. Score the middle of your waistline and fold.
15. Insert the top (gathered) side of your skirt to this interfaced waistline. The allowances of your waistline should be folded in. Also, one end of your waistline should have a 1-inch “tail,” as shown above.
16. Continue inserting your skirt to the waistline. The other end should have a 2-inch “tail.” This is the front part of your waistline, by the way.
17. Sew the waistline in place.
18. Top stitch to the other side.
19. Fit your skirt (almost done yaaaay!) and mark where you want to place your hook and eye. Hand sew them in place.
20. Hem your skirt.
Seriously, you’re done. Very easy, right? From 2 basic rectangular pieces, you get a nicely gathered skirt. With a fun pocket!