How to Sew a Zipper (messenger bags, simples totes)

When sewing a bag, there are parts that I really find tedious. Cutting the fabric is one. I used to hate sewing zippers, too, but I discovered the magic that is the zipper foot. This tutorial is on sewing a zipper to a messenger bag or tote. This is the kind of zipper that is set an inch from the top of the bag, in the lining. I don’t know what the proper term is so let’s just get on with it.

For this zipper part, you will need:

Two pieces of fabric that are 2 inches shorter than the top of your bag. The width of each fabric should be half the width of your bag. One long side and the two ends should have enough allowance for folding. Let's call these parts A1 and A2.

Two pieces of fabric that are an inch thick. The top part of these pieces should follow the shape of the top part of your bag. That is why mine are curved in shape. These are basically the top parts of your lining. These are our B1 and B2.

The lining of your bag. Since the top of the lining (mentioned previously) already follows the shape of the top the bag, the top of my lining (white fabric) is not curved. Its straight.

A 3 x 2 piece of fabric for zipper pull and a zipper that is 4 to 6 inches longer than the top of your bag, depending on the width.

All right, let’s start sewing.

1) Fold your zipper pull piece, right sides together, and sew the sides. The width should be about 1.5 inches.

2) Turn it inside out and fold the opening into itself. Insert the end of the zipper (the end where the teeth are shut). Fold the sides of the zipper to the back part first.

3) Sew around the zipper pull to hold the zipper in place.

4) Take your A1. Fold and sew the two ends and one long side. Do the same to your A2.

5) Mark the zipper 1.5 inches from the end of the pull.

6) From that point, mark the other end of the zipper according to the length of your A1 and A2 parts. Mine was 10 inches.

7) Open the zipper halfway and fold one side at a 90 degrees angle.

8) Pin your A1 onto this angled part and along the side of the zipper. A 2cm gap between the teeth and the fabric is enough.

9) Whip out your zipper foot and sew your A1 onto the zipper. Do the same to the other side with your A2.

10) Mark the center of both sides of your zipper piece.

11) Take out your lining and align one side of the zipper piece to its center. The wrong side of the zipper piece should face the right side of the lining.

12) Lay your B1 on the top layer. The right side of your B1 your face the right side of the zipper piece.

13) Sew.

14) Flip the zipper piece and sew the extra fabric to the lining. This will keep your lining in perfect shape. Sew the other side of the zipper piece and your B2 to the other lining following the same steps.

AND NOW YOUR ZIPPED LINING IS READY TO BE ATTACHED TO THE REST OF THE BAG! :)

Samples of bags with this type of zipper:

Hope the instructions are clear. I will post a photo of the finished bag one of these days. Happy sewing! :)


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6 Responses
  1. Chin says:

    This tutorial is great… if only it doesn’t read like Greek to me. Hah! Remember that time you asked me about a sewing machine part? Hahaha! That sounded like Greek, too! Anyway, kakita ko ug nice na laptop sleeves sa Acer, Ayala. They’ve a really nice, girly pink one but demmit, it won’t fit my Zhivago!

    Anyway, play tag with me?
    http://thenevergirl.com/?p=957

    Don’t ask why I’m doing this. I don’t know myself.

  2. Thanks so much for this! I have such a hard time with sewing on zippers!

  3. Myam says:

    Thanks so much for this! I have such a hard time with sewing on zippers!

    YOU’re welcome!

  4. Rachel says:

    Thanks so much for sharing this, zippers can be really frustrating! I’ll be linking.

  5. Meream says:

    Thanks so much for sharing this, zippers can be really frustrating! I’ll be linking.

    Okay! Thanks, Rachel.

  6. [...] Read the rest of the tutorial HERE. [...]

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